Ann The Gran Community

Can someone please tell me and hopefully show me, with pictures , how to hoop a deep store bought tote bag? I see bags that have embroidery designs near the bottom of deep bags and wonder how they hoop and sew on them without taking them apart at the seams. Another picture I would like to see is how the bag is rolled up, turned out or whatever so it doesn't catch  on the moving machine parts. I have done many searches on the internet but haven't found any pictures yet.

Thanks,

Barbara

Hello Barbara!  Thanks for your input on my bobbin statement.  I had noted in my needles blog that machines which sew and embroider 'would' have two bobbin cases.  It is explained more in the blog but your machine which does dual duty, only had one.  Thanks for that information!  I have corrected that blog to say 'may' have two bobbin cases.

Getting to your question, you always turn the tote inside out and in this case, I would use the hoopless technique.  When doing hoopless, you always place a basting stitch on the tote before you begin.  You should be able to get a good perspective on the placement.  If you feel the placement is off, you can remove the basting and reset your tote.  That helps because you have not really committed to doing the whole design yet.

I do use the black paper clips which are generally pretty strong.  You are so right, tucking all that fabric away safely can be a challenge.  If your tote is a very firm fabric, you might have to use something like a 'mini C clamp.'  I have seen them as small as about 2" in the hardware stores.  No matter what you use, I recommend slowing down your machine and watching the process every second, I had an order for 15 totes, and the #15 one got caught.  I could not replace it and spent a lot of time to get it unattached.

Pat, The Avid Embroiderer

Hello Barbara,

A low design on a deep bag may have been done with an industrial machine or actually embroidered prior to having the bag sewn together.

I have attached a diagram of a tote bag being prepared for embroidering.  However, the design was done towards the top of the bag.  But working a tall bag in this manner may give you a little more space to work with.  This is done in the hoopless manner.  http://p.hostingprod.com/@thesewphisticatedstitcher.com/pinktotebag.pdf

Joan/NJ

Thanks Pat and Joan for your ideas. This gives me a much better understanding on how to go about it.

Barbara

Hi Barbara...Sorry but you do need to take the bag apart. I bought a pre-made bag and I took out one side seam and the bottom seam. After I finished embroidering on it I just sewed it back up. If anyone knows of a way to do it without taking the bag apart pleeeese let us know. Hope this helped.

Lynn

Lynn, your was is the easiest way to do it on a home embroidery machine.  The pro models appear to handle it differently.  You can see video demos at Designs in Machine Embroidery or youtube. 

On the home machine - bunching up a tote, inside out requires a careful eye while the stitching is in process.  A slip of the "bunching" can cause the needle to bend or break, and may even cause the timing of the machine to go 'wonky', which means a trip to the repair shop to have the timing reset.

Pattiann

Whether the bag can be taken apart or not would soley depend on the fabrication of the bag.   Seams on simple canvas totes can be taken apart easily.  However, if it is a laminated canvas tote, that would be difficult as the needle marks would be an issue.  It also depends whether the bag is lined as well.  Faux leather and/or leather are another issue.  And, another thing to take into account would be that not everyone who embroiders, sews.

Joan/NJ

Joan-Excellent points.  As usual, this forum has turned into a great discussion of factors for any ME issue. 

Not all questions and answers are black and white.  The totes that I did were only 15" wide and 18" deep.  However, they were a soft denim that was easy to manipulate.  The design was a little large for the bag, but was for a special event and could not be changed.

This still comes back to the 'test sew out.'  Without that to guide you, a project can (and by golly, will) go bad. 

Additionally, I am starting to use a smaller and smaller needle for my projects.  I think that the smaller needle is making my projects better.  Obviously, too small a needle will cause problems too, but that is what I am doing right now, especially on water soluble stabilizers.

I am going to email Lonestarkayaker and ask for a photo to further this discussion. 

Pat, The Avid Embroiderer 

Pat-

Thank you for the info.  I had not thought about the black paper clips or doing a basting stich with the hoopless technique.  The huurier I go the behinder I get!.  Last week The back of a towel got caught in the stitching and was sewn to the hoop.  I had to cut it loose, trim the towel. and create a new hem line.  The paper clips would have helped prevent this detour.

Lynan

Lynan-I will just bet you have plenty of those moments where you said "Why didn't I think of that?"

Well, I know you have thought of things that I would enjoy learning.  Share a tip and you will find that it comes back 10 fold, and here at ATG, many times more than that.

Some days I have more ideas than time and some days - - well, I trip over my own feet.  I love life for keeping me humble, and like the song says . . .  I am imperfect in every way.

Pat, The Avid Embroiderer

ps:  I hope you take a moment to read my latest blog.  Every one that I do, I feel that something in the blog is better than the last.  In this case, I have created my first design.  What a feeling!!!

Joan - Oh My Goodness, I love your explanation and pictures.  I've printed it out for my 'how do I do this' reference book.

I have one question.  When you say you do a basting stitch, how do you do that?  I have a Janome 350E.  Normally, I would just use one of the designs I've purchased (I've not mastered digitizing yet).  I understand everything else except the part about basting stitch part.

Thanks,

Jan

Jan,

Glad you found the instructions helpful.  Like you, I also have kept "reference" books through the years.  Also have files set up on my computer for various scenarios.

Unfortunately, I am not the contact for basting.  I do not baste.  I will use pins if I have to.  I am also a quilter and never baste there either!  Use pins for that too. 

PAT, can you help Jan with a basting photo and instructions??  

Joan/NJ 

I love to help, and this is one of those things that you will say. . . duh!

Most machines have the basting built in but it is called "frames."  In this case, it is Item #4 on my machine.

This is the configuration on my machine, and of course, yours will differ.  In this case, select "frames" and select some outline that is useable for your design.  Most of the time, a circle or square is all that is needed.  Then, instead of selecting a 'pattern,' select the one that looks like a single line.  Resize for your baste to be outside of your design and you are ready to baste. 

If you cannot make the baste large enough because the design is max to your hoop, baste anyway.  When you remove the baste, some of that will be covered by your design.  Since it is covered, no harm, leave those stitches where they are.

One note.  Many times you will have your pattern selected before you select your basting.  Doing the above, after your pattern is selected places the basting AFTER the fact.  Therefore, you need to adjust your sew out, advancing color by color until you baste BEFORE you start your design.  You will understand this when you get to this point because the baste is at the end, not the beginning of the sew out. 

If frames are not on your machine, you can use these. 

I hope this helps, Pat, The Avid Embroiderer

I know it's been awhile since you asked this question but I use.  a quilting thing called jaws quilt clips,  I bought them through Clothilde.com.  They are really greap for T-shirt sleeves and things.  I also used the old sock keepers, clip sock together, for kid shirts.  Anyway the quilt jaws clips are designed to hold rolled  up quilts while you quilt a section under your home sewing machine. 

http://www.clotilde.com/detail.html?prod_id=1187&cat_id=153

For the tote I would rotate my design sideways then use the sticky hooping method, but also have the bag overlap my the top of my machine.  kind of a reverse sleve arm.  Maybe I need to take a picture.  The only bad part is that you can't see your stitching very well as the machine does it. 

carol from Minnesota