I have been thinking about doing embroidery on lingerie for some time now.  I might be doing some laces or even some more dense design.  I love embroidery and figured a little bit of additional color would be great. 

A great deal of lingerie today is made from nylon and/or polyester tricot.  Tricot is a ‘warp-knit’ which can be woven with nylon, cotton, wool, silk, rayon and almost any other type of fiber or fiber blend.  Warp-knitting, shown on the left is when the yarn zigzags with the length of the fabric.  Standard knitting by contrast is normally done in a line by line (or variation thereof) stitching.  On the right is ‘stocking knit,’ a commonly used knit stitch.

The texture of tricot is different from stocking knit. Ribbing runs in a lengthwise, and the opposing side runs crosswise. The result is a soft and sturdy fabric with many uses like undergarments and lining for sleeping bags.  It is also used in camouflage as a durable and breathable cover.  Since silk is so delicate, manufacturing it in the tricot method makes it a stronger, more long-lasting and carefree fabric to wear often.

Tricot holds its shape; therefore sagging is not an issue.  The breathability makes it a year round fabric comfortable for lingerie, gowns and undergarments.  Since it is made from natural and/or manufactured yarns, the coloration is limitless. 

Tricot is listed with its ‘denier’ number which is a weight calculation for yarn.  While there are a number of computations for denier, for simplicity, it is approximately the “mass in grams of a 500-meter length which is divided by 0.05.”  Got that??  Well, the smaller the number, the heavier the yarn.

 I selected a nightgown to embellish.  I am putting a ‘sparrow’ on the left side of the skirt.

 I started out purchasing some fusible tricot.  I never heard of it before, but my embroidery dealer was telling me about it during one of their wonderful monthly meetings.  I wish I could bring all of you to these meetings because we share, laugh and learn at them.  So I fused my tricot to my underside of the gown.  Just a few moments of ironing and it was done.

I followed that important rule about using a very fine needle for this since my project is on a soft, fine fabric.  I used a number 70/10 sharp (as opposed to a ball point) needle.  I did slip an extra piece of water soluble stabilizer which was just under the hoop. 

I selected a soft brown and cream color for the thread.  I do almost exclusively use Madeira, and the design was digitized for Madeira with a darker brown and a light blue highlight.  I change my colors whenever I choose and I really liked this combination.  The gown is a pale blue so the contrast is just wonderful.

This does bring me to another point.  I don’t always agree with the coloration of the digitizer.  A really good digitizer must not only be able to digitize but also be an artist and a colorist with a really good eye for creating beautiful work. 

I want to examine digitizing because so many people purchase an embroidery machine and want to start digitizing rather quickly thereafter.  The whole concept of embroidery and making your own designs is fascinating to newbies (we love you!!).  A newbie sees creating designs for a child, grandchild or other loved one; they get stars in their eyes about the uniqueness of doing something all by themselves.

Let me assure you that you may well have all the necessary criteria to be a ‘master digitizer’ but such things do take time and a great deal of practice.  Let me show you a couple of designs which will help you understand what I am saying. 

With apologies to the unknown ‘beginning digitizer,’ here is what I mean. 

                                                            2^nd Photo courtesy of Emblibrary.com

The first dog was done from a clip art; and we can and do use this dog caricature in a lot of ways.  Simple art work is where a new digitizer begins, and we all have to start somewhere!  But, they might have done a few things to make it more interesting such as slanting the ears and tail to mimic the actual growth of hair.  They might have added some shading creating some depth to the dog.  If you look at the mouth, it is in the same ‘plane’ as the collar, making it flat and lacking in dimension.

The second dog, done by a very experienced digitizer shows the mouth separate from the neck, the eyes have life, and muscles and other details right down to the nails are accurate.  I personally sewed out the second dachshund and each of the layers on the front chest have been placed incrementally so that the white peeks through each upper layer creating depth and personality for the dog.  I actually ran my hand down the dog and it felt like a soft, smooth coat.

Getting to the point of creating something similar to the second picture takes a lot of work and knowledge of digitizing, anatomy and life colors. 

 Do give digitizing a try and just have fun with it.

Battenburg (Battenberg) lace has also been known as Renaissance lace.  Created by using loops of woven tape secured together by yarn to form a pattern it originated in the 16th century. It regained popularity at the end of the 19th through the beginning of the 20th Century. This new popularity came when it was used by Queen Victoria who created a duchy for her daughter's new husband, the Duke of Battenberg.

Today, it is commonly used for tablecloths, Christmas tree skirts, parasols and bridal gowns.

Battenburg Lace parasols and fans are often used in Civil War reenactments, vintage weddings, French royal court reenactments, photography props and speaks of gentility and refinement.

Close up showing simple tape with few fillings

That lace is so lovely, and I am going to be using the white Battenburg tree skirt which is available here at AnnTheGran.  I did 'age' the skirt with a 'tea bath' because I wanted it to have an antique feel. 

I grew up in Akron, Ohio in the mid 50s.  It too was a time of great innocence and simplicity.  I remember the snow and cold days and an occasional ‘snow day’ away from school.  I remember hearing the coal furnace being stoked and feeling the heat.  One of my fondest memories is the day after Thanksgiving, the two ‘downtown’ department stores, O’Neils and Polsky’s would unveil their Christmas Showcase windows. 

Those windows were filled with winter scenes of elves that would move around in Santa’s Workshop and children dancing around Christmas Trees that were decorated to the tip top star.  They were animated and each store had about 6 or 8 windows, each with a different scene. There were animated people, animals and magic was everywhere.  It was a delight to see.

I wondered if I could capture that feeling somehow in embroidery.  With all the dazzling things children see and technology driving their toys and world, how can I help them to see a simpler time of this season?  Embroidery is so creative, but can it compete?

So, I captured them together and here are the (nearly finished) results.  I did have a problem with my embroidery machine and was unable to finish the skirt before the blog due time.  You will get the idea as is!

I used several Christmas designs that I had collected previously but I wanted more, so I selected the Candy Land Christmas Set and I am so glad I did. 

This set has excellent shading woven into its designs.  The items markings give them a 3D look.  I used metallic threads for the shading and I love the outcome.  For instance, the ornament has a yellow loop design and, while difficult to see, I used silver metallic thread in the shade area.  The yellow peeks through the silver and is just delightful.

I also used the same colors from design to design.  For instance, I used silver metallic in each, but also used the same pinks and reds for continuity.  They tie together nicely.

I have a tendency to use my own colors rather than that of the designer.  Of course, if I were doing a dog or horse, I would use the correct colors; but in this case, I can make it personalized just for me.

Thanks for reading my postings, I am delighted to spend this time with you.  Please do ask any questions and tell me what you might like to learn about next.  I do have a couple of things in the planning stages:

ü  Lafayette Curve

ü  French Country

ü  Entredeau

ü  Dotted Swiss

ü  Dantela cutwork

ü  Egyptian cotton

ü  Silks

ü  Metallic thread

What do you want to know about next year?

Best wishes to you and yours, Pat

This is going to be a quick post, but I just was working with the Pashminas that I sell on Etsy, and it occurred to me that you might like to hear about a few things I've learned.  They sell the blank ones here on AnnTheGran - the shipping and handling are FREE - you cannot beat that for a good deal!

These wraps are selling like crazy this time of year, and thought that I might share a little something with you about how I work with my projects that are for sale.  From the amount of interest there was in my Embroidery Analysis spreadsheet, it seems quite a few of you out there are selling your projects as well. I don't need to tell you that handmade should not look like it was done by a 4 year old, unless, of course, you are a 4 year old!

I do use the "Sulky Heat Away" stabilizer because I am going to lightly press the shawl before sending out to my client anyway, so the Heat Away is ideal for this use. 

It is difficult to see this clear stabilizer, and I did cut away most of it for a quicker removal process.  Additionally, I was concerned about the Rayon pashmina and the effect on it, but there were no problems!!

In about 10 seconds, the results were those small plastic 'pebbles' you see in the second photo.  The iron is clean as a whistle and I have a lovely, pressed pashmina ready to mail to my client.

I was delighted with the results and the rayon is perfect as well.  These are really a gift that will be used many times, not only as a wrap, but also as a little lap blanket.

How do you suppose the photos of Mason and sleepy Addison got on here???  Well, it was a Thanksgiving and Christmas combination because we came from San Diego and Chicago to Phoenix. 

Best wishes to you and yours for a joyous and healthy season, Pat

(Me singing) "Rain drops on roses and whiskers on kittens; the smell of leather and warm woolen mittens . . . . "  Oops, you caught me, I love the smell of leather, it seems earthy, rich and makes a wonderful handbag.  This time, I am doing a luggage tag for a client who is giving it as a gift.  I don't even get to keep it. 

This tag is one of the ‘blanks' from Susan Mars, Allaboutblanks, which is available here at ATG.  The colors are luscious, black, lemon, pink, orange, yellow, red and turquoise.  What a nice gift and a great way to say - "Isn't it time for you relatives to go home?"  (Grinning out loud.)

First a few rules for our project.  Designs planned for leather or suede should be fairly open.  Dense stitching can cause holes in the soft leather making it weak and possibly creating an opening.  I would use an outline style, monograms or a simple abstract design.   Please understand that these are a medium weight leather and not the sort that would be on a saddle or other heavy leather.

Test sew out the designs on scraps of similar leather if you are able.  I had a heavy towel to work with, but a second hand store may have had something more suitable.  I used an AnnTheGran heavy cut-away stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive.  I avoided hooping the leather and slowed the machine speed from 800 to 350.  Susan said she used a regular needle, so I decided to give it a try so I did not have to buy a needle that I won't use a lot.  I did use a #70/10 which is a very small needle.  Avoid using a large needle because the leather is not forgiving at all.

Speaking of stabilizers, I previously had used rubber bands to hold my rolls and here are the results:

With this stabilizer, I would have to iron it before I was able to use it, wrinkled stabilizer is an oxymoron! 

Here are my stabilizers with Hugo's Amazing Tape (3 pack) which I have found to be helpful for so many things, including keeping things bundled together.  Don't tell anyone, but I am giving some of these rolls for gifts for the holidays.  For the man that has everything, something to keep it all from getting wrinkled.  LOL

Back to the luggage tags.  My client wanted three initials and she chose a font that was preloaded on my BabyLock.  The monogram area is barely 2" by 4", and I made some adjustments to the lettering to suit the tag's area. 

Following the rule to use the smallest hoop available, I hooped my 4" by 4" and using the "In the Hoop" folding and flexible ruler to mark the center of the hoop.  I made a small mark on the leather which was just visible. 

The flexible ruler has a ‘zero' axis, so I centered my tag to my hoop frame.  The gold colored grommet in the center of the ruler is the ‘zero.' 

I used a gold-beige color because it offset the red so nicely.  I am pleased with the results and trust the client will be as well.

I did a rough cut of the stabilizer with my seam ripper.  Incidentally, if you are still using the one that came with your machine - retire it to the kitchen where it will cut open a lot of things.  Get a new seam ripper and be careful of its sharpness!  Then I finished the cutaway with scissors.  Be sure not to take too much away.  It won't show except when you fill out the identification.  Otherwise, the closed and monogrammed flap will cover the name, address and other information for some measure of safety against identity theft. 

Final and lovely project -

Thank you for joining me again.  If you enjoy my writing, tell a friend.  If you have a comment, please do that right now, I love hearing from you all.

Enjoy the rest of the Holidays and may health and joy find you and yours always smiling.

Pat

The first time I saw a ‘Bean’ stitch, it was from a distance of about 12 feet.  I could see that there was something different about this embroidery, but could not put my finger on it.  I asked the owner of the project and they explained it was done with a bean stitch.  I felt the stitching and found it to be ‘alive,’ if that is an appropriate expression.  It was just so different than the other stitches and I found something that added to my design repertoire.  The design was a preloaded one in a new Brother machine.

There are probably many instances of this stitch in a design but it may not be given the specific notation that the stitch is used.  Perhaps you may look at some of your favorite designs and find this stitch.  For instance, if you have a fill pattern of an apple and there is writing on the apple, it may well be the bean stitch rather than a single or satin stitch.  It would certainly show better that the single and the satin may be just too heavy to be effective. 

I would wager than some of the ‘redwork’ etc., has this stitch within the designs because it would create a nice measure of dimension for a design.

The definition of Bean Stitch: Three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Often used for outlining because it provides a bolder stitch appearance than a run stitch and requires fewer stitches than a satin stitch.  The bean is sometimes referred to as the ‘bean walking’ because it is used as in this first photo, as an outline. 

You can see in the leaves that clearly the outer and main rib are in the bean stitch making it a subtle but interesting difference from the ‘fill’ lines of the leaf. 

In this design, the bean is in the outer petals of the flower.  While these two designs are minimal, the bean can be used in other areas, again being a subtle but defined option for digitizing and embroidery.

Photos courtesy of terradonembroidery.com

In the center of this more filled design, a bean stitch is created with the gold thread.  I did sew out all four of the designs and was able to see the striking look of the stitch which unfortunately does not photograph well.  This is an FSL and you may have been using an FSL that has a more open work.  The one I have used most has a distance of about 1/16” between thread lines.  This is a much closer digitized pattern creating a somewhat different look for FSL. 

Again, the gold thread here is the bean stitch but I also created some of mine with other colors as well.  I made some in red, white and blue.  These will be on the plates at my daughter’s Thanksgiving table.  You may have noticed that she had a little girl on October 24, Addison Joy Fuller, so she will be taking it easy while the rest of us create a Thanksgiving for her and the new baby.

Photos courtesy of Criswell-emb.com  

I used Badgemaster on these, of course, but I also got to try the NEB plastic sided bobbins and was very happy with the results.  The thread is slightly lighter than #40 threads making it a good choice to do FSL as well as other projects.  At just .38 cents each, they really are a good buy. 

I really enjoyed doing this blog because there was a lot to discover about this fun stitch.  If you are like me and love this wonderful craft, and you might be thinking of selling some of your projects; you can check out my spreadsheet for determining your ME costs.  I was getting so many request for the spreadsheet that I worked up a more robust document which allows for you to create scenarios based on multiple factors.  I think you will like the new and added information, making it a 'must have' for the independent business owner.

As we head into the holiday season, may I say thank you to all of you for your generous comments and thoughtful questions.  I want to wish you the happiest and safest holiday season for you and yours, Pat

Everyone is interested in ‘being green’ these days.  Preparing for the Holidays, I plan to go green and have a great time doing ornaments and decor for my home.

I want to have a really old fashioned Holiday with my family and you may want to as well.  What does that mean to me? To you? To our families?  I suppose it is different things to different people, but one thing is clear, saving money is paramount for nearly all of us.  This one qualifies for money saving, going green and keepsakes for generations to come, I like that!   

The design I selected for this blog is one that creates a “Stained Glass Ornament” and is really good for decorating trees, center pieces and certainly, windows.  The following photo is what the designer had in mind:

These designs are created with clear vinyl, organza and black thread acting as the beading on the glass.   They really look like 'stained glass' and when placed in a window, are outstanding.

But, I did not have the same thing in mind!  I am thinking 'use what you have,' 'Green' and 'Heirloom.'   I made a list of the sorts of scraps you might have available.  Keep in mind that some of the ‘stain’ areas are as small as 2” by 2” so you should be able to find lots of great pieces to use on this project.

Fabric Variety:

·     Quilt scraps

·     Sewing project scraps

·     Organza for stained glass look (the original design by the artist)

·     Denim in various stages of wear

·     Themes for your Décor – all blue or purple, etc

·     Lace, net, voile, tulle (first made in Tulle, France, c.1818), nylon, rayon, silk, etc

·     Support your favorite charity by showing their colors.

·     your imagination is the only limitation

You will also need some clear vinyl for the base of your ornament. 

This design is quick and easy.  Start by placing a piece of the vinyl in your hoop and stitch out the outline for the first appliqué piece.  Place your initial fabric so that the outline will be covered and stitch it with the second round of stitches.  Trim as you normally would and repeat the process until all areas are covered with fabric. 

The final step is to create the satin stitch which is the “beading” for the stained glass.  You may want to use either black or silver thread since stained glass is usually one or the other.  I used several different types of threads, whites, metallics and some twist types. 

Here are some of my completed items.

This one has two different scraps, one is the bell and the second is the bow.

The designs themselves do not have the rings on the top because they are 'window' ornaments.  I placed an "o" from the monogram lettering available on my machine.  However, since there is no underlay for this letter, it is going to collapse if it gets wet.  So, I tucked it low into the design for support.  The design itself is not Free Standing Lace (FSL), but due to the vinyl, can be used alone or in an arrangement, just like FSL.  

The next design is using three different scraps.  The bell has a blue background with a red overlay.  The light green bow makes a good contrast to the bell.

I was really having fun making up things as I went along.  The candle is done with heavier fabrics, including gold lame fabric (shown in second photo). 

In the next photo, you can see my dove which I did do with the organza, and in the stain glass method.  The second photo has been colored by me so you can see the color more accurately.  Photographing the vinyl distorts the colors, making them appear dull.  The ornaments are absolutely beautiful and colors are alive!

And, last but not least, I found a design which was just an outline of a cat with clean paws.  I used white fabric sandwiched between two pieces of vinyl.  When complete, I did not trim close to him because he did not have the same heavy stitching as the stain glass.  Mr. Snowman was fun to do as well.

These are "Christmas in the Heartland" and using the same instructions as the cat, I think these would make great "stainglass Ornaments!"

I am off to do some more of these, they will look nice on gifts, at table place settings, hmm. . . and so many more places.   

With the Holiday Season right around the corner, everyone will be creating new and following old traditions.  I hope you might find something in this blog that you will find some inspiration for a little something to add to your family’s experience. 

I am combining shadow applique with the wing needle for this project.  Perhaps you have used the Wing Needle, when you were doing a “Hemstitch.”  Perhaps you wondered why someone wants a needle with wings.  Perhaps you have noticed on some of the heirloom designs there is often some small but noticeable holes that make the design all the more delicate.  In any case, after you try this needle, it will have a special place in your repertoire of tools that create something different and exquisite. (Photos courtesy of Beaconfabrics.com and twin needle is available)

There are a few rules you need to know when using the wing needle:

• You cannot use the threading feature on your machine to thread this needle.
• Use the flywheel to check to be sure that your foot and needle plate will allow for the needle to pass easily.
• Wing needles do not fare well on satin stitches. 
• Wing needles are best when used with natural fibers, cotton, cotton batiste and linen. 
• Wing needles ARE so terrific on cross stitches!!! 

Vermillion Stitchery Cross Stitch is having a sale for Ann's Club members so, if you're a Club member and you have the promotion code that was sent out by e-mail to members, you can work with this technique and save money at the same time!  I thought this one would be especially great – Santa in a Quilted Frame. I personally would do just the beard and white of the hat with the wing needle.  What an interesting and unusual effect you will get for less than $10.00.

My design is a shadow appliqué, wing needle angle ornament.  It is not a free standing lace, but it will be a great ornament just as well.

Since I am doing 4 test sew outs, I am playing with various fabrics, stabilizers and techniques.

I used batiste and an organza for the top fabrics.  I used a regular needle for one of the sew outs, and did some cut away on another sample. 

For this design, the first color is done in the wing needle and I changed to my preference, the metallic needle for the 2^nd color.  In addition, a background color fabric is put in place before starting the 2^nd color. 

I followed the instructions which called for use of a light weight water soluble stabilizer.  In my opinion, it was not a good method, and I will use a brayer and Ann’s WSS Adhesive.  That will always make a good and stable working area!

Because the wing needle is really subtle, it is difficult to capture for a photo.  So, I did place a lighted background for better viewing ability.

As you can see, there is only minimal difference in the photograph, but in person, there is a noticeable difference, even if you are not sure what that different actually is.

In person, you can see a lot more of the red background.  This is a photo of the wing needle stitching.

In this photo is with the standard needle.  It is still nice, but lacks the interest given by the wing needle.

I cut out the spots where her face and apron would be, it made it interesting and, if it were on a tree with a light behind it, it will be aglow. 

I did the bobbin thread for this one the same as the top thread, so this is the back side of white winged angel above.

While this did have water soluble stabilizer in it, I did have to remove the fabric using an appliqué scissor. 

This was a fast and fun project.  It looks like it was very difficult but only took about 25 minutes for each angel. 

Check your regular sewing machine, you will find many designs that will embellish a pillow case or edge of a little girls' dress.  Just keep in mind that satin stitches are not recommended.  Have fun with this one.

I know you are aware that October is Cancer Awareness Month.  Please take good care of your body because you deserve good health.  ATG is offering a great awareness ribbon free with any purchase for the month of October.  You may also purchase it for $1.00 and the proceeds are going to this very worthy charity.   It is free standing lace and makes a big statement.

For all mothers, sisters, daughters everywhere, good health to you all.

Some words cause us to think Luxury, and Pashmina is one of them.  Pashmina is the Indian/Persian word for cashmere and is derived from the Kashmir region of India.  Wherever it comes from, it is soft, very expensive and always very chic.  Photos courtesy of boutiquejewel.

Pashmina comes from the Capra Hircus goat which lives above 14,000 feet where temperatures are around minus 30 degrees centigrade in the winters.  The fiber is from the underbelly down, producing only about 3 ounces of wool each year.  Obviously, not a lot of it can be harvested annually, and spinning it requires patience and dedication.  This yarn must be hand woven and hand dyed due to its fragile nature. 

Some shawls may include silk, which is usually woven with silk running the length of the weave and cashmere running the width of the fabric.   If, on the other hand, you find a shawl that is ‘faux pashmina,' you probably have a rayon product that will do an excellent job of pretending to be more expensive and is a lot easier to care for.

Pashmina must be dry cleaned and I advise you know your dry cleaner well; some have the ability to clean special garments, and some, well, not so much. 

A few other hints are:

• Do not wear your garment daily; allow it to rest two or three days between wearing.
• Do not wear your garment next to rough clothing, necklaces, belts, even purses, (That is why you see women carrying clutch purses when photographed.) etc. Rough items can cause abrasion and pilling will result. If that were to happen, you can use your Peggy's Stitch Eraser to remove the pilling.
• Always clean your garment before storage and be sure to protect it from light, damp places and dust. Fold the garment with tissues and protect it with an appropriate moth repellent.

My garment, on the other hand, is rayon.  It is very lovely just the same and I am taking good care of it as well. 

Items I am using:

• Shawl, mine is 34" by 109", not including the fringe
• For my heirloom design, I chose Vintage Lace because I wanted to have an elegant look
• Madeira Rayon Thread and Bobbin Thread
• A fresh #70/11 Metallic Needle. or Economy Size Pack of Needles 
• ATG, Water Soluble, Adhesive Stabilizer
• Badgemaster Stabilizer
• Placement Ruler
• A brayer
• Seam Ripper

I placed my Badgemaster into my hoop and covered it with the ATG Water Soluble, Adhesive Stabilizer.  My design is large and I placed the stabilizers only into the machine and used the ‘trace' feature as shown.  I wanted to be sure that my center point in the hoop was aligned with the center point on my shawl.  Use of the crayon worked because I could shorten it easily.